Nonlinear Periodization
training notesPremise
This is just my note-taking from reading/listening to Steve Bechtel on the topic.
Classical periodization: macro cycles of endurance, strength, power, etc. This doesn’t apply to climbing b/c it’s largely a skill sport. There are too many skills and energy systems at play to spend a whole year converging on one system and/or one point of performance. Most climbers have several opportunities per season or multiple seasons per year (rock, ice/mixed). This applies even moreso to climbers whose objectives span sub-disciplines that require a different mix (e.g. a bigwaller who has sport RP goals).
Brainstorming the alternatives: It seems, per advice I’ve gotten from UA & their book, that you just can’t optimally train multiple energy systems at one, so you have to be very careful not to let maintainance eat too much into your focus and the adaptations you are (tactically) going for. But the upshot is that if you maintain right, you can accumulate against all of them (towards global vs. local optima, I guess).
- Block periodization - a block has one focus, but you maintain the others
- Linear periodization - maintain all, but stagger by adaptation persistence (more below)
- Hybrid - classical: in the winter, focus on weak phase, transition to nonlinear once fitter
The Main Takeaway: Bechtel’s key idea is being aware of and aligning adaptation persistence of the different training regimes.
MOST PERSISTENT |
---|
hypertrophy |
strength |
power |
flexibility |
muscular endurance |
anaerobic endurance |
aerobic endurance |
LEAST PERSISTENT |
---|
Align the ones you care about and build throughout the year, rather than starting from scratch each season.
Philosophy
- favor practice over training
- plan shorter sessions for higher quality
- avoid the trap of constantly preparing, then never trying
- shore up your weaknesses
- keep programs simple
- don’t neglect the tier below projecting a.k.a. 2nd tier (this might not map well to walls)
- maintain your finger and general strength, force development is key for climbing
- logging and planning are critical
Relevant tactics: Some additional factoids that may inform training loads & practice strategy:
- for finger strength, prefer volume over intensity (65-75% max, 8-12s)
- video yourself (incl sound)
- running won’t help you climb (unless you’re cutting or need approach Ae base)
- minimal hangboard positions can be effective
General Strength
General Strength Needs: The overall needs can be broken up into a few basic categories, and from there you can choose an appropriate set of exercises to cover them:
- upper body press (bench)
- upper body pull (pullups + rows, esp static)
- hip hinge (deads)
- squat
- midsection (levers + leg raises)
Minimum Viable Strength Exercises: For maintenance purposes, KISS applies and the following exercises provides an absolutely minimum set of general strength coverage (though it feels like push is underrepresented here?).
- TGU (good as a warm-up or in-between strength session, light CNS impact)
- Deadlift (1 every 10 days 3x2 can maintain)
- Arm Swings (10 each side for warmup)
Plan Structuring: Below blocks, there are cycles, which are roughly (but not necessarily exactly) a week long. As opposed to taking up contigous time chunks, energy system phases are striped:
- strength/power/endurance phases
- striped across “sessions”
- sessions may not align to a week unless you can train 4 times a week
Here is Bechtel’s suggestions for a L1 (beginner) L2 (intermediate), L3 (expert) structure:
Level | Structure |
---|---|
L1 | 3 sessions, 1 cycle (peak at 5/weak, recover at 2/week) |
L2 | 3 sessions, 2 cycles (same as L1, but switch focus every 4 weeks) |
L3 | 4 sessions, 3 cycles (for hard redpointing specifically. forget it) |
Session Formats: Strength L1 + L2 (3 sets each group, circuit style)
Session/Workout | Exercises |
---|---|
A1 | hang, straight-arm, x10+10s |
A2 | front squat |
A3 | frog stretch 60s |
B1 | hang, bent arm, x10+10s |
B2 | 1-arm OH press x5+5 |
B3 | doorway shoulder opener, 60s |
C1 | hang, lockoff, x10+10s |
C2 | Levers x3 |
C3 | Splits, 60s |
Specific Strength
Bouldering L1 + L2 (limit bouldering): 20min general warmup, 15 min specific warmup, 70 min 2nd tier+limit training
Metrics: Record/calculate these for each bouldering practice.
- total v
- v sum (work capacity/endurance)
- avg v (intensity)
- session density v sum / hours (long power/strength endurance)
Fingerboard: See Webs-Parsons plan (fingers) - uses single-arm hangs and minimal grip positions.
Other Phases: Other phases are striped in, with less focus. They are (for the usual sport/boulderer case):
- Intensive Endurance L1 + L2
- Strength Endurance L2
In my case as a bigwaller/alpine climber, I will do stamina, ME, and strength.
Tools
- hangboard - I might not for bigwall, except I’m stuck inside and can’t get rock mileage
- dynamometer - Good tool for reliable, simple tracking of raw force
- pinch rig - Not available on all hangboards, and seems more ergonomic anyway