Nonlinear Phase 1
training notesSwitching Gears
Since this is my first foray into self-customized nonlinear periodization, I want to state some assumptions/reductions from my previous survey before diving deep on the specifics.
Method
Block periodization. Since my goals involve multiple seasons (bigwall, late-season alpine) with different energy systems and skills, it makes sense to leverage the flexibility of block periodization while minimally maintaining gains made in non-focus energy systems. I have several seasons of linear periodization and base built, as well as some recent experience doing custom blocks designed by coaches, so this seems like an OK time to make the leap to self-customization. Also, given that the pandemic has effectively lengthened my training period by delaying objective windows, this is a good time to switch things up.
Primary Systems
This year there are two primary objective bins:
- bigwall (IV + V)
- alpine (IV, V, VI)
Unlike common objectives (sport + boulder ticks), these both imply volume per (1). Object specificity is still going to matter here (note how sore you got after switching from pulling plastic to doing lots of slow, awkward aid when the climbing gyms closed). That translates to:
- hiking uphill w/ light loads (stamina)
- bolt/gear ladders (skills/stamina)
- jugging laps (skills/stamina)
- humping loads (ME)
- strength (dependency for ME)
Let’s start with bigwall for this phase. Energy system constraints in bigwall, per Hoerst, are ME (anaerobic) and stamina (2). In his parlance, “stamina” training consists of marathon days (basically, up to 12-hour weekend days, with a min of 2 hours). ME seems to be the next rung down - 1/2 to full days of climbing involving many hard pitches… Bechtel lumps both regimes together as “stamina.”
In Bechtel, endurance work is suggested in 6-week pushes, with 40% (~2 session) backoff at the end of each push, until necessary volume is reached (1). Ideally measured in feet. Progression is in volume and difficulty (in my case, adding in harder free pitches).
Secondary Systems
Everything else should really be back-burnered here, with the exception of maximal strength, since it’s a dependency of better endurance (as opposed to rate of force development, which is not). Since strength has a higher persistence than muscular and aerobic endurance, it should actually be the focus of the early block.
Available Strength Exercises
In the middle of the pandemic, I’m somewhat limited. Here’s what’s practical:
- all sorts of hangs
- squats (with weighted pack)
- 1-arm OH presses (small weighted pack as makeshift kettlebell)
- levers
- TGUs (small weighted pack as makeshift kettlebell)
Plan
Keep it simple, per the philosophy. Replace bouldering w/ compressed general strength, since crags not available due to COVID-19.
Week | Description |
---|---|
1 | Tue/Thu strength (A1 + A2); 2 sessions of Mon/Wed Z2 run/hike; 2x3hr weekend project (aid tree, camp) |
2 | Tue/Thu strength (A3 + B1); 2 sessions of Mon/Wed Z2 run/hike; 2x3hr weekend project (aid tree, prep jug anchor and clean) |
3 | Tue/Thu strength (B2 + B3); 2 sessions of Mon/Wed Z2 run/hike, weekend jugging (700 ft) + run/hiking (2000 ft) |
4 | Tue/Thu strength (C1 + C2), 2 sessions of Mon/Wed Z2 run/hike, weekend jugging (700 ft) + run/hiking (2000 ft) |
5 | 1 sessions of strength. (C3) sessions, 2 sessions of run/hiking, weekend jugging (1100 ft) + hiking (4000 ft) + skills |
6 | 1 sessions of strength. (A1) sessions, 2 sessions of run/hiking, weekend jugging (1300 ft) + hiking (3000 ft) + 2x ME (humping loads) + skills |
7 | 1 sessions of strength. (A2) sessions, 2 sessions of run/hiking, weekend jugging (1500 ft) + hiking (3000 ft) + 2x ME (humping loads) + skills |
8 | 2 sessions of run/hiking, weekend jugging (1700 ft) + hiking (4000 ft) + 3x ME (humping loads or perform) + skills |
I think this gets me to a workload vaguely equivalent to a short grade V wall, albeit without all the aiding/climbing drills since those are not really available. Be sure to log and track details in TP. Track weight, composition, and raw grip strength metrics at regular intervals in similar conditions.
Skills
This is the practice part; includes anything I’ve not drilled recently, even if it went OK last time:
- haul
- traverse simulation
- penjis
- lower outs
- bag lower-out
- haulbag rappel
- bolt anchor knots (incl butterfly)
- self-belay
- belay escape
For things that repeat/involve efficiency (anchor setup, belay escape, jugging), time the efforts to measure improvement/test system changes.