Switching Gears

Since this is my first foray into self-customized nonlinear periodization, I want to state some assumptions/reductions from my previous survey before diving deep on the specifics.

Method

Block periodization. Since my goals involve multiple seasons (bigwall, late-season alpine) with different energy systems and skills, it makes sense to leverage the flexibility of block periodization while minimally maintaining gains made in non-focus energy systems. I have several seasons of linear periodization and base built, as well as some recent experience doing custom blocks designed by coaches, so this seems like an OK time to make the leap to self-customization. Also, given that the pandemic has effectively lengthened my training period by delaying objective windows, this is a good time to switch things up.

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Premise

This is just my note-taking from reading/listening to Steve Bechtel on the topic.

Classical periodization: macro cycles of endurance, strength, power, etc. This doesn’t apply to climbing b/c it’s largely a skill sport. There are too many skills and energy systems at play to spend a whole year converging on one system and/or one point of performance. Most climbers have several opportunities per season or multiple seasons per year (rock, ice/mixed). This applies even moreso to climbers whose objectives span sub-disciplines that require a different mix (e.g. a bigwaller who has sport RP goals).

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