Nonlinear Periodization
training notesPremise
This is just my note-taking from reading/listening to Steve Bechtel on the topic.
Classical periodization: macro cycles of endurance, strength, power, etc. This doesn’t apply to climbing b/c it’s largely a skill sport. There are too many skills and energy systems at play to spend a whole year converging on one system and/or one point of performance. Most climbers have several opportunities per season or multiple seasons per year (rock, ice/mixed). This applies even moreso to climbers whose objectives span sub-disciplines that require a different mix (e.g. a bigwaller who has sport RP goals).
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